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PostPosted: October 20th, 2021, 6:28 am 
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Hey everybody, it's been a while since I've posted a topic on here, if ever. The title is on the money, I'm attempting to make a semi-accurate movie costume with a small difference. I wanna see if you can see the only difference in this pic.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/14SHbuz ... sp=sharing

Tried to go with the image code, but it don't wanna work for this, don't know why.

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PostPosted: October 20th, 2021, 8:27 am 
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egon901 wrote:
Hey everybody, it's been a while since I've posted a topic on here, if ever. The title is on the money, I'm attempting to make a semi-accurate movie costume with a small difference. I wanna see if you can see the only difference in this pic.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/14SHbuz ... sp=sharing

Tried to go with the image code, but it don't wanna work for this, don't know why.


Probably something to do with the way Google drive works.

Very nice. A "standard" suit with that logo works just fine, after all, because that's what we wore for the first year or so. :)

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PostPosted: October 20th, 2021, 10:47 am 
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Fritz wrote:

Probably something to do with the way Google drive works.



The strange thing is that I also tried to link it to my DA account and still didn't work.

Fritz wrote:
Very nice. A "standard" suit with that logo works just fine, after all, because that's what we wore for the first year or so. :)


I know. Not gonna try to do the current suit because I don't wanna be wearing that around in Northern California, it can still get pretty hot out here, even at the start of fall. At this point in time, I basically have all of the Spirit Halloween GB equipment and modding it all over time. I've started with the trap and it's starting to come along really well so far. I also have several mods on hand for the Proton Pack, just to make it look closer to the movie and have the correct cyclotron and power cell lights.

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PostPosted: November 2nd, 2021, 7:17 pm 
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Almost two weeks since I started this thread and not a single update. Well, I'm gonna have to change that today, starting with what I've changed on the trap. And as of today, I don't have it back together yet, I'm still waiting on the pedal, but the hose is complete.

And the only thing I don't have a picture of, I'll fix that later. And I don't have any before pictures. Oh well, I actually started working on the trap before I came back here so I didn't think of it at the time. Anyway, on to the pictures and explanations as to what I did in them.

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The reason I'm painting the sides of the trap is that it was a kind of bluish grey/ bluish white and I honestly didn't like that at all. Drilled some and cut out some holes for Spongeface Mcgee's (AKA GhostLab42 on eBay) Trap Cosmetic Upgrade kit for either the Spirit Halloween trap or the Imagine trap sold by Wal-Mart. Only difference between the two is that the Imagine trap has an actual pedal where the Spirit Halloween trap is activated by pushing a button on the top of the handle to open the trap. Both are made by the same company and only have a few differences in the electronics and where certain holes are placed.

Anyway, the first picture is of the left side of the trap. Second pic is of the right side where there was a molded-in knob that I hacked off and to the left of that is a hole where you have to stick a potentiometer with a more movie accurate knob in. There is also a cover with a triangle cut-out that also goes over the holes that you cut out, so it's pretty movie accurate. The holes in the corners of the raised 'panels' are for more accurate screws and on the left side, around the 'knob' is for another panel to be put on and held down by real screws. The area on the right side that has tape covering it is the battery compartment. I had to bring the two halves in before they were completely dry to test the electronics and make sure the mods to the power switch and indicator light still worked. (Would it surprise anyone they didn't because I accidentally switched the poles on both the switch and indicator light?) I had to bring both in because while the battery compartment is on the left side, the main board and pedal, that can only be removed from the board by cutting the wires, is attached to the left side and you can see it to the right of the trap body. I had to repaint both sides because I didn't let the paint dry and you can see the fingerprints I left in the paint, not to mention I had both halves on a towel and that left marks as well.

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This is just a picture of the electronics I had to swap out. The sad thing about the original switch, the black and silver one, was that it was wired in a way that it was never truly off. It had a demo mode where the lights were off but it would spring to life when you pushed the pedal, then shut off after a few minutes after closing the trap. Then there was the 'on' portion where it would have lights on and the pedal would open and close the trap with a the bar graph at the front of the trap blinking on and off in a three-light sequence and the indicator light at the back would be on but not blinking.

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This is a pic of all the upgrade parts, sans most of the screws. The only parts that didn't come with the upgrade kit were the dark grey piece of plastic below the hose connector and the first piece of silver plastic to the right of the paper towel, because it's the battery cover for the trap. The piece to the far right goes on the front of the trap.

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This piece goes over the bar graph at the front of the trap. It's transparent and the only thing I did to this was put some window tint over it, also included in the upgrade kit. Hopefully by tomorrow, I'll be able to assemble the whole thing and be able to show it to you guys. I'm hoping the actual pedal will be here soon, that way I can see what I need to do to get it to work with this.

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PostPosted: November 8th, 2021, 6:13 pm 
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Welp, I've finally finished the trap mods and put it back together and it works as well as it did when I got it, so yay! I spray painted, again because of the problems I stated in the last post on this topic, the sides so it looks more like metal than poorly painted to try to resemble something that looks like it was trying to be painted like something looking like metal, if that makes any sense at all.

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These are the only two sides I painted. There are some spots where I didn't mask as well as I'd thought I did, but I think it turned out a bit better than I was thinking originally because now it looks like there's some wear and tear on it. You can see a blotch of grey on the 'back' of the trap almost directly below the red light, there's also a spot below the bottom left corner of where I painted the side panel that I didn't get a good pic of. Maybe a future update.

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I didn't really mess up anthing on this side of the trap honestly. There are a couple of places that got paint on them that I didn't notice until I started writing this up, but oh well. Like I was saying, makes it look used.

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This is the back side of the trap and yes, I did spray paint some of the chrome paint onth the belt hook, but it's fine. Most likely, after I've had it for a while and get stuff to make a belt holder like Ray had in the movies, I'll just cut it off or something, but for now I like it.

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And here's the front plate. When I was little, I kept trying to justify how the trap cartridge stayed in the ECU and originally, I thought that all these knobs somehow kept it in, but as I worked with this and studied how it was all put together, when the base and cartridge of the trap were seperated, it was actually the two protrusions above this front panel that locked into the ECU somehow because it looks like they'd be perfect for locking into something inside the ECU.

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The hose to connect to the pedal. I actually put this together from a kit I bought from megafern on eBay, they also go by Chatsworth Industries on Etsy. They supplied split loom, the connectors, and a nice length of clear tubing for inside the loom to connect the connectors together. And the connectors do fit the connector on the back of the trap. They offer the correct male connectors for the trap and pedal, but I wasn't sure if they would fit the one that came with the cosmetic upgrade kit so I went ahead and bought them.

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And here's the hose and the male Foster connectors as they're called. I'm not sure if the pedal I'm getting comes with a male Foster connector, but I have two in case it doesn't. I'm going to have the wire bascially going from the pedal, through the hose, and out to the trap board to activate it. For storage, I'm gonna have an extra couple of electrical connectors on either end of the hose set inside the pedal and trap, with a few extra inches of wire, so I can unscrew the Foster conncetors from either end and separate everything. There's an easier way to do that, but I'm not ready for that kind of wiring nightmare yet.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GNFrfD31uAwkA2-yMnl6kN9FUS5h5nC-/view?usp=sharing

Just a vid I made after I got it all together. If the doors seem to be a little on the weak side and not going out as far as they should, you're not imagining it. Not sure how to get them to go out that far and make them not flop around when on the belt, but that's a problem for another day honestly.

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PostPosted: November 15th, 2021, 5:00 pm 
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I'm taking a break from the trap for a bit until the actual pedal arrives and I can wire it up. The only other piece of equipment I honestly wanna get up to a semi-movie accurate look is the proton pack. I've already modded the pack so that the wand was removed so I could use the Spengler wand that I have, and again, no 'before' pics with the wand, but that was with the wand, I do have pics of the, mostly, unmodded pack. Only thing that I'd modded on the pack was to take the stupid sky blue sticker, that didn't even go all the way up the opaque plastic 'window', off the power cell and replaced it with a more accurately colored stage light gel I had from my time working at a local live theatre. I taped it onto the white plastic piece that the sky blue clear sticker was stuck onto, it actually looks kinda cool with the lights shining through the plastic piece and the gel. There is a third clear plastic layer that is the first thing you see as you look at it head on.

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Current state of the pack at the start of this upgrade. Used it on Halloween in this condition, with the broken electronics. The wire loom had to be cut a bit for the Spengler wand loom attachment to fit with a bit of tape. The wire sticking out of it is part of the wiring of the old wand. I had the bright idea to keep the original electronics in the pack and tried to run the original activation button to the Spengler wand handle so I'd have sound and lights coming from the pack. it was a disaster, a few minutes after I drew the wand from the pack, the negative wire pulled itself off of the button and stopped working. Yay. I'll fix it and re-introduce it into the pack sometime soon just so I don't have to take it apart again when I'm finished with it.

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Makeup of the Power Cell window.

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What the lighting gel looks like on the white opaque piece that was included in the pack itself

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How those pieces are layered.

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What it actually looks like inside the pack. There is so much room for upgrades in this it's unbelieveable.

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A close-up of the Power Cell from the inside. The bulb there is the only light source when the original electronics are lit up and doing a strobe effect, trying to copy what happens when the pack fires. The newest iteration of the Spirit Halloween pack comes with an actual light bar that lights up one LED at a time and cyclotron lights that light up in a clock-wise manner instead of them all flashing at the same time. When Id' gotten that one honestly.

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Interior of the cyclotron. The loose boards there are the lights that come with it. The lenses there came with it as well, but I have modified them to accept some light shrouds that you will see in a minute. I'm trying to fugure out how to let the lights shine through the shrouds without losing a bunch of light in the process. the connector on the top board is for the neutrona wand electronics to plug into, and all that is is a bunch of wires, a couple of lights, and a switch. The green circle above that is the speaker

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A view of just how a full light bar whould look coming through the Power Cell window using natural light from my office window. The dark spot at the bottom is the shadow of the original bulb.



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Video of the pack lights inside the shell.

The light kit is, again, a Spongeface Mcgee creation (ghostlab42 on eBay) and comes in two different versions. One version can be run off of a 9v battery, the other version runs off of a 12v battery pack because the LEDs for the cyclotron can change colors according to what game mode the Spengler wand is in. I had to get the 12v version because that's all they had at the time and had to get 2 12v battery packs for use and a back-up. I doubt I'd have one on long enough to run it down, but you never know. I bought some adapters to plug the light boards into the battery pack and then a bunch of quick connects to do the wiring, just in case something goes wrong in one spot and I have to replace it or bypass it completely. I've also installed a switch to turn the pack lights/sound on, at least that's my hope to have sound and lights to come on when I flip the switch, and if I do it correctly it should the first time.

Video of the power cell lights being turned on via switch.

Video of the Pack lights being turned on via switch located on the underside of the Ion Arm.

Ghostlab42 has a soundboard that interacts with the light board by modding the Spengler wand, but I don't wanna change anything about the wand cause I could screw it up since it needs a lot of soldering and just trying to solder up the switch and light on the Trap took me about three hours or so, just trying to connect 4 wires total. It'd been a good 14 or so years since I'd done any electronics soldering. I'm going to go with an alternate sound method that I'm gonna wire up to power and, probably, a blue tooth speaker by an aux cable.

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I started changing the outside of the pack, just added a couple of correct hoses and changing the ribbon cable. I need to enlarge where the ribbon cable plugs into the cyclotron. I may have to enlarge where the other end of the ribbon cable plugs in.

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These two pics are of the same thing essentially. The blue tube was where the yellow hose is now. It was a pain to pull it out from the elbow piece, there's still a small piece of the blue hose in the elbow, but it dosen't matter.

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The wire loom that I'm focused on is the new addition in the pictures. In some of the other pics of the pack, there's a green hose that's in the same spot. I'll let you decide what happened. There's some other hoses that should be changed, but I'm gonna leave them. There's one hose on the left side of the pack, and a couple of other small pieces, that needs to be installed, but I'll do that later when I figure out how to do it.

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I've also changed the way the wand attaches to the pack. For the Spengler wand, I had to get a custom V hook that somebody on Etsy made by 3d printing a kit that had the receiving part, the part that covered up the hole that was originally there for the original wand.

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It also included a clamp part and hardware to keep it together. You can see the clamp in the pic showing the interior of the pack, left side of the picture. As the V hook kit covers the original hole, it'll be hard to put the original wand holder back, but since the hole had an insert that only had 4 screws holding it in, I took that out before I drilled the two holes for the kit. I don't know if I'll be able to put the insert back in or not. And speaking of wands, size comparison time!

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I did my best to put the free end of the tape at the very end of the wand and it came out to a little under 16.5 inches (419 mm). I was surprised by that just because it doesn't feel that long to me. Probably doesn't help that it's about as light as three tennis balls in a container.

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The Spengler wand is almost 21 inches (533mm) long with out the barrel extended, and a full 2 feet(24 inches) 609mm extended, and again I did my best to line it up with the end of the loom connector and it barely fits on my keyboard tray. The way I'd placed it was a bit awkward and had to hold on to the tape measure just so it wouldn't fall off. I'm not sure how much it weighs, but it has a good heft to it and actually feels like you could hit somebody in the head and do some damage with it. Not surprising since it does have some actual metal (cast aluminum) parts on it.

Right now, that's all I have done to it. Just waiting on a couple more pieces for the pack, plus figuring out how to do the one non-existent injector hose part that should be there but isn't. I'm still waiting on my flight suit and elbow pads to arrive, should be here this week, so not long. Later on my friends.

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PostPosted: November 19th, 2021, 2:40 am 
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Well, some more updates for the week, not sure if there'll be any more before Monday.

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Finally put the GB2 accurate ribbon cable on my pack. I know I'm missing a clamp, I'm just waiting for it to come to me, plus 9 more.

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Bonus: These all came with the ghoslabs42 light set. The blue bar is for the power cell, and the circles are difusors for the cyclotron if you were gonna use the Spengler link for the Spengler Wand for the different game colors.

This isn't what I'm most happy about though.

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I got my jumpsuit Thursday, and I was surprised that it fit me without knowing whtat my size was for military jumpsuits.

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The knee pads aren't movie accurate, I know, but they were cheap.

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The nice part of my name tag is that it's backed by Velcro.

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The nice thing about this jumpsuit is that it has Velcro.

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Nametag is a bit bigger than the Velcro, but...

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it still looks awesome. I know that the zippers aren't the right color, but I like them. I'll trim down the knee pads and either paint or dye them grey, but that'll be a bit. I have yet to wash either the pads or the jumpsuit, but I'll alter everything after I do that.

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PostPosted: November 19th, 2021, 8:35 am 
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I am, as always, in awe of anyone who can do this kinda stuff.

And don't worry about "innacuracies" much. You can always just say "Venkman sent us to a different supplier because he said it was cheaper"

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PostPosted: November 19th, 2021, 3:22 pm 
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That's always been my excuse for this kind of stuff. :lol:

But in all seriousness, it's been a process honestly. I've spent a couple hundred alone on the pack, even though it was mostly done, and there's still a few things that still need doing, like adding sounds to it. I'm honestly not gonna get the sound board from ghostlabs42 because it just feels to easy and I wanna expand my knowledge base at this point in time with Arduino coding experience for a couple of things, including the sound board. And, to be honest, most of the mods to the pack aren't permanent.

Like my character, I am a Jack of all trades. My dad made sure of that since I was a kid, mostly in construction and all things dealing with tools of that trade. I just used some of that knowledge to help me with this stuff. The jumpsuit fitting was sheer luck that it fit me, just because the only way I knew how to measure my chest was because of my time in live theatre. Had to have a fitting done a couple of times and the only thing I could do by myself was measure my chest while having a lungful of air and went with the size that was larger than that. It's a bit tight around my stomach, but that's what happens when you have thick midsection, front to back anyway. Thing is, anyone can do what I've done, even you Fritz, just takes a bit of time and patience to learn enough to do what I've done in this thread. Probably wouldn't even take a month in your case. The only thing I'd need for this project is sewing skills and I wasn't good at Home Ec at all, so I'm gonna have to use Liquid Stitch to get the No-Ghost logo on, after I wash the suit anyway.

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PostPosted: November 22nd, 2021, 8:37 am 
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Well, after a few days, I started on the Logo patch using Liquid Stitch to adhere it to the jumpsuit.

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After removing it from the suit once, simply because I'd used way to much of it, I put it on the back of the patch and it worked much better. I have one finger that needs to be glued down, just because I didn't get any of the adhesive on it. Oh, if anybody gets this stuff, just a heads up, it smell like cat piss. At least have a fan running so you have a little ventilation.

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And here I am wearing it, my unmodified elbow pads, my web belt and radio.

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The belt is from Spirit Halloween and is very nice for what it is. The key fobs a part of it, which I was surprised with. They seem sturdy enough to hold things, but I honestly don't know since I actually have a problem with one of their other Ghostbusters offerings.

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The Motorola MT-500 replica Spirit Halloween prop. When you pull down the PTT button it goes through, line by line, the initial communications between Ray and Peter from GB1, plus the holder for it. The radio is amazingly accurate from some reviews I've seen from some people that have actual MT-500 radio units for their GB gear. The only part that sucks, at least for me, is the holder.

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The belt loop for this thing is attached by only one rivit and if your body is pear shaped or you try to move it into a position that more closely resembles where they wore it in the movie and you have a ponch like i do, that one damned rivit slips out of the hole and it will slip off your belt. I've read and heard about people fixing this problem by putting a washer on the rivit so it can't pop out of the belt loop material. That material is a bit stretchy so I don't blame them, but I opted to get a leather holder for it. It was expensive for it, but it'll be worth it just to not hear the damn radio fall off my belt when I take it off.

I honetly never thought I'd ever have my own Ghostbutsters uniform, but now it's almost complete. I'm just upset I decided to make it so late in life.

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PostPosted: November 22nd, 2021, 10:56 am 
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I used to have that brand of elbow pad. The gray dye job didn't turn out too well if I recall. What always bothered me the most though is how long they are, covers too much of the arm and wasn't super comfortable to me worn over a flightsuit sleeve.

GBfans sells more movie accurate ones for $25 which...might be a little steep but it's not break-the-bank bad.

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PostPosted: November 22nd, 2021, 7:04 pm 
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Yea, that is a problem that I had to address with the picture I took, so I just tucked the excess under itself. I'll probably either dye them or use paint for the coloring, leaning more towards painting them than dyeing just because I don't wanna use up that much water in one go just for a dye job. When I saw them, before I bought them, I thought they were the correct ones since the eBay seller only had a picture of them in the package and you could only see the part that has the three separations and I was all like 'Oh, they are the right kind.'

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PostPosted: November 30th, 2021, 3:45 am 
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Hello all, just a small update. The past couple of days was spent re-soldering components in the trap, namely the power switch, the light next to the switch, the speaker and the wires of the battery box. Several times each because of my generally poor soldering skills. The few things I did do was mostly cosmetic things to the proton pack.

1. I noticed that the ribbon cable was rolled the wrong way from the movies and corrected it.

Before:Image

After:
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2. I put in appropriate bolts in the cable connection for the cyclotron. I'd ordered an entire box of M2, M3, and M4 bolts, washers, and nuts for each size bolt and different lengths for each size bolt. I used two of the medium sized bolts and then used a washer and nut on the inside of the pack to hold the cable in place. I don't wanna cut the cable until I'm sure it looks right. At the moment, I have the extra length rolled up and held in place with a zip tie. Speaking of zip ties, I zip tied the original light boards to the pillars they used to sit on to keep them from rattling around in the pack, and hopefully still light up the reflectors the new lights have on them.

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3. As of right now, I do have my trap pedal, but I dropped it and part of it has broken off. It looks a lot like the ones used in the movies, but the hose connector wasn't the right type and was way too big. Most of the parts seem to be made from molds of 3d prints, except for the ribbon cable and assorted computer hardware. The resistor is also real, but the socket it's plugged into isn't. The light next to the resistor is just a plastic tube and painted red using a marker I think. I have some clear red model paint that's used for painting brake lights on model cars to correct that.

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I don't know if I can fix it because I'm not sure what the broken box is made out of, but I'll try. I've already gotten replacement boxes for both sides. The replacement box for the one that's broken is plastic, but the one for the other box is aluminum, so I get to drill into metal. (Yay, I get to grind down a drill bit with it!) I'm also trying to figure out where I'm going to mount a speaker and a battery bank in the proton pack so I can power the lights and eventually sounds (once I figure out how to set up the sound board I have.)

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PostPosted: December 4th, 2021, 11:29 am 
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Another small update. Some time ago I mentioned that I had ordered a replacement holster for my Spirit Halloween 'MT 500' look-alike and it arrived a couple of days ago along with one for the trap and PKE meter.

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All three of these were sold by do-ray-egon on eBay and are made out of real leather. The back of the trap holster is reinforced with aluminum so all the hardware has something a little more solid to help with holding the trap on.

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It also came with 3d printed V-hooks, the other hook I need to figure out how I'm gonna attach it to the trap and where.

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I know it's supposed to be closer to the rear wheels, but I'm tryin' to figure out if I can mount it to the middle of the trap where the seam between the two halve meet or if I should put it to one side or not. Anyway, here's what all three look like next to and holding their intended products.

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Just because I don't really have the room on my keyboard tray, there isn't a pic of the trap next to the holster. That's the only update I have for you for the moment, if anything comes up I'll post it here per usual.

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PostPosted: December 22nd, 2021, 1:52 am 
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Hello, another update this month. Yay! I've been working on the trap again so I can attach the V-hook to it. It went pretty well until... well, I'll just show you.

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First off, I put on the Ion Arm antenna and put my proton pack back together without any sounds for now. I need to figure out how to program the sound board before I put it in, but it looks pretty good, to me anyway, but that's not the reason I'm posting this. On to the trap.

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As per usual, I started by pulling the trap apart, surveying the inside for the best place to drill some holes into the plastic.

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I chose to use the space next to the circuit board since it has a lot of space in that specific area, so I went ahead and made holes there. I removed the board from it's mounting point and unplugged everything I could from it and moved it away from where I was going to make holes so I don't screw it up in the process. I taped over the area I was going to drill into, using a piece on each half of the trap, then screwed it back together so I didn't have to guess at where the other half of the hole needed to be. I then taped the v-hook onto the bottom where I wanted it to be, trying to make sure I had the holes lined up over the seam. I drilled the holes, took the hook off, took the screws out and romoved the tape. I put the board back in place to see how much space there was between the holes and board. Next, I had to figure out how to secure the bolts into the holes.

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I'd decided to use some cardboard, two bolts, two nuts, and four washers, and some two-part epoxy to put my little attatchment point together. I started the same way I did with the holes in the trap itself, then put a mark in the center of the hole and put a self-tapping screw through the mark. Self-tapping screws are the ones that have a sharp point at the end instead of being flat. I did this a few times with larger screws to open up the holes in the cardboard, it's slow but makes it harder to screw up the cardboard. The washers, for those who don't know, are flat, circular, pieces of metal that have a hole in the middle, the use of which is to keep a bolt or screw from slipping through a hole. The use of four of them is possibly excessive, but I just wanted to make sure nothing gets screwed up. I used two under the two nuts and put the other two between the hook and the cardboard. I tightened the nuts and bolts as tight as possible and covered the the nuts with the two-part epoxy. I needed to redo the nut closest to the camera two more times. The reason the cardboard is so wide is so there is something that will push against when I screw the bolts in.

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It looks awesome hoenstly, but...

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it is too far back on the trap. I held it vertically and it almost fell off the belt hook. There is a belt that goes around the trap to keep it on, but I didn't want that belt to be the only thing holding it on, so...

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I decided to drill another hole. Again, I used the hook to see where it needed to be drilled. I was happy and started drilling and suddenly the entire trap split apart.

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Turns out there was a support where I'd started to drill that I hadn't remembered was there. I grabbed both halves and held on as I continued to drill.

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A better view of the support on the left hand side of the trap.

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I also remembered the one on the other side that was also going to be in the way once I opened it up. Now I have the added headache of making room without destroying the integrity of the whole trap.

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Just a pic making sure the spacing is correct, still trying to figure out what I'm gonna do with the support. If you're wondering what's going on with the cardboard, I'll explain..

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Because of the move, I had to modify the cardboard a bit. It had started at a little over three inches and I'd cut it down to what you see here. Didn't get a measurement before I sealed the trap up, and I now know that I didn't have to trim it as much as I did, but it was something that I said screw it to and trimmed it as much as possible, down to the edges of the epoxy on the one side and only where I needed to on the other. Anyway...

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This is how I solved the support bracket problem. Using flush cutters, or nippers to those who make models, I cut some of the support off so I could get it in, the amount I cut out is laying there. It was quite seriously the length of the cutting edge and then a downwards cut to remove it. As you can see, I did it on both sides. I also decided to use a file and smooth out the newly flat part on both sides.

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And here's the finished product. Don't mind the grey spattering of color on the bottom, that's from spray painting the sides and not enough masking tape on the bottom for the first coat.

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And here it is properly seated on the holster. The distance between the holes is a little over an inch. It's amazing how much difference an inch can make. The next update will hopefully be me showing off the trap pedal that will be almost be built from the ground up. The only thing that will be used from the one I ordered is the pedal and base, I've gotten mostly everything else from eBay, just waiting on a light.

_________________
Wow, it's all nice and shiny.
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I haz deviantArt.


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